And I knew imprecision would bother other Sawppy builders out there as well and not everyone could get access to a real lathe. Fortunately, high precision is not required for a 3D-printed rover, the worst thing that happens is a rover whose suspension is a little bit wobblier than it would otherwise be.īeing a perfectionist, I was not happy with the hand-built results and arranged to cut a second set of Sawppy shafts with a manually operated metalworking lathe. So my documentation couldn’t really say what the proper lengths would be, I could only give the functional dimensions and tell people to add width of their E-clip slots.įor cutting those E-clip slots themselves, I documented a “ Poor Man’s Lathe” technique using two motorized tools, but this is not very precise. Unlike my ignorance with heat-set inserts, I knew E-clips are not very standardized, especially in their thickness. (For some of them.)Īnd it turns out the E-clips make everything trickier than it really needed to be. Generally speaking there are three steps to fabricate Sawppy shafts: I designed Sawppy to use 8mm metal shafts everywhere there is rotational motion: for wheel rolling, wheel steering, and rocker-bogie suspension articulation. Closely related to the challenging heat-set inserts are the shafts their set screws bite into.
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